Antwerp Guide
Recommendations for one of Belgium's top rated, yet still under visited cities
Last month I hopped on the Eurostar to Brussels to attend Collectible, a fair dedicated exclusively to 21st century design, featuring work from international galleries and independent designers. There were a number of really interesting piece on display - some that I think worked better conceptually than IRL - but altogether it was a worthwhile exhibition.
Another incentive for the trip was the ease with which I could tie it to an overnight stay in Antwerp, reachable in only 40 minutes via a 9 euro train ride. I’d first visited in December 2022 when temperatures had plummeted below zero across northern Europe - not the best weather in which to explore. And yet it was a surprisingly delightful jaunt, with breakthrough periods of bright sunshine, the frost covered Art Nouveau buildings sparkling like turbo sized gingerbread houses. Though it was not massively warmer this time around I lucked out with consistent blue skies and it was just as wonderful as I remembered.
Still probably best known as a major port city and for its role in the diamond trade and Flemish fine art, Antwerp has also come to be widely appreciated as a hub for contemporary design talent. The past several decades have produced interiors megastars Axel Vervoordt, Vincent van Duysen and Gert Voorjans and The Royal Academy of Fine Arts has notable fashion alumnae in the “Antwerp Six” (including Ann Demeulemeester and Dries van Noten) as well as Martin Margiela and Glenn Martens. Raf Simons and Pieter Mulier still call it home.
Despite its historical importance and culture of cool, Antwerp still seems to get less love than its Belgian neighbours - the fairytale like Bruges (now rammed with visitors, blame Martin McDonagh for that one) and Ghent with its gothic architecture and vibrant nightlife. Situated within 1 - 1.5 hours of both these cities as well as just 2 hours away from Amsterdam, it’s a perfect base for day trips or as part of a longer crawl of the Low Countries. Or simply for a fab weekend away on its own.
As people start getting more into holiday planning mode again I thought I’d put together a little guide, since it was quite hard to find a consolidated list anywhere. I’m not claiming this to be anywhere near comprehensive - although my inability to feel my feet means I did manage to cover a lot of ground both trips. Included are recommendations from friends and some well known Antwerpenaars, along with discoveries I made on my own. I’ve put an asterisk next to the places I stayed or ate at and the museums I visited (you better believe I went into every one of these shops!). Others I at least poked my head in and snooped around.
The ideal time of year to go seems to be pretty much any month outside of winter…however seeing as that’s the only season in which I’ve visited I’d say it’s worth your time whatever the weather.
Getting around
Unless part of an extended road trip the best way to arrive is by train - not only for the fact that Antwerp is very well connected but it also happens to have one of the most beautiful stations in Europe, Antwerpen-Centraal.
It’s an ideal walking city - traversing from one end to the other takes about 1.5 - 2 hours. There’s also an extremely efficient and reliable tram system which you can use with tickets purchased at kiosks or by tapping your bank card onboard. Taxis and Ubers also operate everywhere if needed.
Dutch is the official language, though with it’s complex history and half the population coming from migrant families you’ll find many locals conversing in English. Don’t even bother with French - most people seen keen to do away with that association as I learned when observing their support of Argentina during the World Cup…
HOTELS
Antwerp is home to a disproportionate number of really well designed hotels, with aesthetics falling distinctly into two camps - monochromatic minimalism or colourful eclecticism. All these mentioned below (save for August) are centrally located and easy to find being near the town square, Grote Markt. Since the city’s manageable size enables you to enjoy a balance of exploration and relaxation, you can spend the morning lingering or return for some down time without feeling you should be out and about.
I stayed in this boutique hotel right when it opened (essential for securing a good rate…). Designed by Voorjans in a riot of colour with 7 individually themed bedrooms, all named after precious stones (though no diamond room, there’s not a lick of white paint in sight). Big velvet sofas and a constantly burning fireplace create a cozy atmosphere in the lounge and there’s a glass conservatory looking out onto the garden for the warmer months. The inclusive breakfast was a real high point - delivered on tiered plates and served by candlelight. Pieter at the front desk was incredibly helpful and enthusiastic, giving me a number of tips that I wouldn’t have otherwise come across. Scrolling through recent reviews it appears the level of service has remained at a high standard.
A few doors down on the same street you’ll find the more understated - yet no less inviting - Hotel Julien. Set within two 16th century properties the interiors are modern but relaxed, with an appealing open plan living area and bar setup. To help you zen out there are two outdoor spaces in the form of a leafy courtyard and roof terrace. Downstairs the cellar has been converted into a bijou spa.
This was one of the first hotels I had heard of in Antwerp (thanks to Jenna Lyons, who raved about it). Bold colour and prints are juxtaposed against traditional wooden beams and marble fireplaces - though the 10 bedrooms and public areas still appear light and spacious. Run by two sisters, the consistent rave reviews regarding the hospitality seems to be what keeps people coming back.
A sister property to Julien, set across 5 buildings in a peaceful quarter of the city. The minimalist design by van Duysen includes a fantastically dramatic black ceilinged bar, fine dining restaurant and wellness center. It’s slightly removed location just east of the center means the rates are generally lower than other hotels of its calibre - a nearby tram stop and bikes are available to zip up to the action in minutes. It’s particularly practical if travelling by car as there’s a garage on site. A great option for 2+ nights if you’re looking for a cultural fix as well as a good dose of R&R.
A luxury hotspot in the city, set in a 13th century monastery with a large garden and a fabulous looking 18 metre pool. There are multiple saunas, a steam room and jacuzzi with treatments based in both Chinese and European healing techniques. There’s also a serious looking gym - although it’s not all “health is wealth” with a 2 Michelin-stared restaurant, wine bar and whiskey cellar also on site.
You can book in at the spa even if you’re not a hotel guest, just be sure to do so in advance.
Located in the ‘t Zuid neighbourhood in a corner building with views of the Fine Arts Museum. I’ve tried to stay here before but with its very reasonable price point it’s not a surprise to find it fully booked. The rooms are simple but stylish with large windows and high ceilings. Downstairs is a nice looking restaurant with a lovely terrace out front.
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
*Royal Museum of Fine Arts Antwerp (KMSKA)
After an extensive 11 year renovation the KMSKA reopened in 2022. Housed in a beautiful neo-classical building with over 600 works by Flemish old masters as well as prominent 20th century artists - from Jan van Eyck to Rene Magritte. There’s a good cafe and restaurant Madonna on site for lunch. A must do.
Though the artist’s residence is closed until 2030 a new building containing the “Rubens Experience” opened last year - an interactive presentation that takes you through the life and work of Antwerp’s most celebrated artist. I’ve heard mixed reviews as to whether this is worth it but the property’s library and baroque gardens - designed by Dries van Noten to bloom 365 days - are deserving of a visit.
In lieu of The Rubens House I would venture over to this small museum, located within the 17th century residences of former mayor Nicolaas Rockox and painter Frans Snijders. It’s a really interesting curation of artwork and furniture from the period, with helpful audio and iPad guides to walk you through it.
The first museum on the UNESCO World Heritage list is the home and workshop of 16th century printer Christophe Plantin. Some of the oldest printing presses can be found here as well as important artifacts and art work. There’s also a beautiful library and enclosed garden. Not something I would have gravitated towards but I found it fascinating.
*MoMu
With so much homegrown talent in Antwerp it seems obvious that the city should have it’s own museum dedicated to fashion. The permanent collection alone is worth seeing but I wish I’d timed my visit to coincide with the current “Fashion & Interiors, A Gendered Affair exhibition”.
Located north of the center along the river Scheldt, this 10 story red sandstone building is the largest museum in the city, with an extensive collection of artefacts relating to Antwerp’s history and place in the world. You can also take a picnic up to the top floor and eat lunch while taking in the 360 degree view.
SHOPPING
GraanMarkt 13 - Named after the historic square it sits on, this concept store is a clever curation of fashion and household goods, including Antwerp based label Bernadette. It’s garnered such name recognition it now has a product line in its namesake.
La Collection - Minimalist dreams through thoughtfully crafted, easy to wear garments. The definition of effortlessly cool.
Christian Wijnants - Slightly oversized, chic pieces in a variety of graphic prints, stripes and solids.
Dries van Noten - Historic building Het Modepaleis is home to this beautiful flagship store.
Enso - Vintage designer pieces and upcycled clothing.
Essentiel Antwerp - Fulfilling all your highlighter coloured wardrobe desires.
Vrijdagmarkt - On Friday mornings this square becomes a second hand market, selling typical knicks knacks as well as designer clothing and furniture.
Ganterie Boon - Leather gloves in every shade and size imaginable (I’ve mentioned before but it deserves a repeat shout out)
Marie-Marie - Bed linens and bath accessories in the most gorgeous colours - packaged for ease of transport.
Wunderkammer Stad Leest - A stationery store to end them all - I dare you not to come out with an armful of new pens, greeting cards and gold masking tape…
St Vincents - A gallery space selling everything from the art to the vintage and contemporary furniture - with a nice coffee shop in the middle of it all.
Espoo - A home furnishings store that carries an assortment of well known names, such as Scandi brands Hay and Audo. Located on Kloosterstraat - a street littered with small galleries and shops selling antique and modern homewares - a great place to while away an afternoon.
Luddites Books & Wine - The largest selection of English books in the city with a wine bar upstairs and a continuous rotation of literary events on the calendar.
COFFEE SHOPS & BAKERIES
These guys are big into coffee - unsurprising given as they’re one of the world’s biggest traders in the stuff.
*Caffenation - this is an institution, with various locations throughout the city
*Kolonel Coffee
*Butcher’s
*Normo
Toi Toi Toi
Black & Yellow
Leo - Modern versions of vienoisserie & pattiserie.
*Bakkeri Aldo - A charming spot I came across on a walk in the Zurenborg neighbourhood.
Bakkerij FUNK - A constantly rotating pastry menu with vegan options.
Goosens - A traditional bakery selling all kinds of sweets - famous for their currant bread and handmade chocolate.
RESTAURANTS
*Tinsel - Breakfast out is not a big thing in Belgium (if you need something substantial you’re best off taking it at the hotel) but this cafe on a quiet plaza does a good selection of brunch/lunch food. There’s often a queue but it moves very quickly.
*Fiskebar - a serene seafood restaurant across from the Fine Arts Museum.
*Osaka - A brutalist style natural wine bar with Asian inspired small plates for sharing.
Camino - Run by the same people as Osaka, with lighter fair as well as more substantial portions. Their large terrace is great for sunny afternoons.
*Album - Inventive dishes using local ingredients in an elegant but casual environment. It looks like they now only do set menus - though the prices are still pretty fair.
Veranda - Unlike traditional multi course dining - expensive and heavy, here its very reasonable (a 5 course dinner is 69 euros) and vegetable forward. It’s a bit further out - a cab ride is necessary - but its supposed to be worth it.
Cobra - Dishes designed to be shared and combined in a stylish setting with a serious bar.
Dome sur Mer - Modern seafood fine dining in Zurenborg.
Ciro - An old school brasserie - think meatballs and goulash. Reservations via telephone or email.
‘T Fornius - Traditional belgian dishes cooked with high quality ingredients. Rustic fine dining. Reservations via telephone.
Wolf - A food market with 10 restaurants of different cuisines - ranging from Peruvian to pizza (there’s an outpost in Brussels too).
Frituurs
You’ll see these shops dotted around selling all manner of fried delicacies - you’re really there for the fries. “The best” seems to be a matter of personal opinion but I’m partial to the boujee ones at Frites Atelier where you’re given the option of multiple dipping sauces and toppings - including a delicious beef stew.
BARS
Tazu - A cocktail bar designed by Axel Vervoordt, hidden inside a building on Vlaaikensgang. Attached to a high end sushi restaurant if you don’t want to move elsewhere for dinner.
*Vitrin - Casual bar/cafe across the street from Fiskebar. With lots of outdoor seating it’s always got a buzzy vibe - you’ll find people clinking beer glasses from noon straight through til midnight.
Marigold - A very chic new hotspot with atmospheric interiors - best for when the sun has gone down.
*Dogma - Though there’s an extensive cocktail list the extremely friendly bar staff will happily come up with something unique to suit your alcohol/flavour profile of choice.
PAKT - A former industrial site that has been reinvented into sustainable hub, with a speciality taproom serving belgian beer (and pizza).
Other things to do & see
Middleheim Museum - an open air sculpture garden set within 30 acres of Nachtegalenpark with approx. 400 works on display, from Rodin to Calder to Giacometti.
Vlaaikensgang
A hidden passageway that owes its name, “Pie Alley” to an original pie and waffle shop. Once full of shoemakers it’s now home to small art galleries, antique shops and restaurants.
Cathedral of Our Lady, the largest gothic church in Belgium, with four alter pieces by Rubens.
Cogels - Osylei a street in Zurenborg, south east Antwerp, with the most eclectic array of late 19th/early 20th century mansions in all manner of architectural styles. About a 20 minute walk from the central station, it’s worth grabbing a coffee and strolling down there.
Now on my Bucket List
Bookmarked every single one